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Feb
8
EATING OUT- Doughnuts of Central Maine
Filed Under Eating Out, Text, Uncategorized
by The Eating Out Guy
America may run on Dunkin’ Donuts but in many localities the claim is based more on availability than choice. Last summer, Spouse and I drove from Gardiner to Eastport. We decided to forgo breakfast on the Gardiner end of the trip and planned to stop an hour or so down the road to enjoy a late breakfast of our favorite health food, coffee and doughnuts. By lunch time we were still looking for breakfast. Nary a doughnut in 203 miles. We should have stopped at Bolleys in Hallowell before heading east.
But wait. Before we can intelligently discuss the state of Doughnuts in Maine, let’s be sure we’re all taking about the same thing.
From here on, it’s all a matter of opinion … ours.
Note the spelling; there are “donuts” and there are “doughnuts”. One is not just a variant spelling of the other and anyone who thinks so has a lot to learn, and we’re here to teach ya.
“Doughnut” refers to scratch-made bread-like dough that’s hand-rolled out on a slab and hand-cut with a cookie-cutter type tool adapted so as to cut the dough into ‘torus-shaped’ pieces, one at a time. And one at a time each piece is carefully slipped into a kettle of real hot fat for a spell. How hot and for how long is the difference between a good doughnut and a disgustingly ‘juicy’ fat-soaked abomination.
A “Donut” on the other hand, refers to the end result of a semi-fluid batter mechanically squeezed through the nozzle of a machine from which it drops into the hot fat, which may be why they are sometimes referred to as ‘drop’ donuts. These are the things you find on the shelves of supermarkets everywhere in boxes marked ‘donuts’. In spite of their similarity in appearance, they don’t make the grade as a ‘doughnut’ by a long-shot, but desperation breeds tolerance.
And that, at long last, brings us back to the focus of this essay and the man who has it all nicely under control.
A quarter mile or so above the railroad bridge on the north end of Hallowell right next to the cemetery, Donny Pooler, Bolleys owner and Master Maker of Marvelous Meals, fires up the fat every morning before 4:00 am. By opening time at 5:00, the first of Bolleys genuine home made, hand cut toruses of succulent artery-clogging deliciousness rests within the glass case on the right end of the service counter. Plain white, cinnamon, and chocolate sugared they sit. And right there beside them are Bolleys soon-to-be-famous Molasses Gnarlies. These are characterized by their, um, gnarlie-ness; a plain molasses doughnut liberally embossed with tender crispy random protrusions impossible to achieve with the drop method, and all but impossible to avoid with the real (hand cut) thing. The rougher the raw cut toruses are handled, the gnarlier they are and, for my money, much the better.
If Donny reads this, it may be the first he’s heard of Bolleys Famous Gnarlies, but I gotta tell ya, Donny, you’re sitting on a gold mine in those wee hours. A little practice and experimentation, and you’re well on your way to a break-out in the world of hand cut doughnuts. The Eating Out guy will be dropping by frequently and you can expect some on-going feedback.
Love them Gnarlies!
I’ve never tried a Bolley’s doughnut, but after reading this I just might give them a try……especially the Grnalies. D/
Bolley’s doughnuts are the best around this area. If in the Caribou area there is a small market located on route 161 (Oulette’s) They have several different flavors of homemade donuts, made right there on the premesis. Also, several other sweet homemade delights. Check it out if in that area. You won’t be sorry.
I do not get to visit the areas of my youth as much as i wish.But i do stop at Bollies for dog and fries.Them dogs are still good ,not as good as before Jordens started making them or who ever but still good.But lived in Pittston and staying at Bakers landing it sure was nice to still get great fried clams at Browines.And a great find was that they now do breakfast.It was realy good,better than most.And good product and done right.I make it back about every two years and when i do i go fer clams at Browines before before family, and i stop at Bollies for the dog.I forgot the name but think it started with an S the last street you can take a right and faces the flats In Wiscaset.They have a soup and salad bar god i forgot how good fish chowder can be.I know its because its made with fresh haddok ,i do not see that often where i live. And let me say thanks for you web site.